National Parks | Road Trip Revisited

Death Valley – Stovepipe Wells

In the center of the park near where the roads meet to go to the four corners of the park is the Stovepipe Wells Village area, which features the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, Devil’s cornfield, and the Salt Creek boardwalk trail. It also has basic services including a very nice General Store with reasonably priced gifts along with somewhat pricey (yet very popular) soft serve ice cream. We kicked back for a while on the patio after heading out to the dunes nearby, which pleasantly reminded one of walking on fine beach sand. If it wasn’t for the creosote bushes that dotted the area, it would remind one of the Sahara. But like most of the park, the scenery changes dramatically. To the east the mountains pierce up in rocky crags with ribbons of color, while to the south lay the marsh-like area around Salt Creek, filled with pickleweed and playful pup fish.

Driver Report: Stovepipe’s central location makes for a good first destination coming from Beatty. Entrance fee here is $20 for a 7-day car permit. If you plan to come back more than once, a $40 year pass is the better value, or an America the Beautiful pass. Don’t forget to bring over-the-mirror pass holder that you should have gotten with the parks pass (and always lock your vehicle when your pass is in the holder so nobody is tempted.) The road to Salt Creek is gravel, but was well maintained with no special restrictions.

Wheels Report: Strollers and Wheelchairs: The boardwalk trail in the area is Salt Creek Interpretive trail, particularly popular in the spring when the pupfish are spawning. Benches are spaced rather far apart on the boardwalk out to the loop area, but there are several once you get there. Overall, the boardwalk is level and well maintained. The bathroom is primitive and out in the parking lot and not marked as accessible, although the ones at the dunes are.

Kids Report: Salt Creek boardwalk has interpretive signage and at 1/2 mile is short enough for younger explorers. The dunes are a good option as well, although not for strollers; you don’t have to step far onto the dunes to experience it fully. The general store at Stovepipe has drinks and snacks and a shaded patio with picnic tables if you need somewhere to take a break.

Tech Report: As in all areas of this park, don’t count on cell phone service. There are pay phones at Stovepipe Wells Village if required.

General tips: If you did forget to bring hats and sunglasses, they are available at the village general store (including kid-sized sunglasses.) They also have water and other supplies, and if you simply must get gas in the park, the gas station here was much cheaper than the one in Furnace Creek during our visit. If you’re planning on heading to Scotty’s Castle, it is still about 44 miles away and takes about an hour. (Panamint Springs, Beatty, and Furnace Creek are 30-35 miles away). Spring is the most popular time to see Salt Creek, but don’t let that stop you from doing it other times of the year and experience what nature is like on the edge of the flats.

Death Valley: Furnace Creek

To say that Death Valley National Park is large would be an understatement: at 3000 square miles, it is the largest National Park outside of Alaska. But if you only had one day to explore this park of stunning contrasts, the Furnace Creek area would be the obvious first choice. A little over two hours out of Las Vegas and about an hour out of Pahrump and Beatty, the Furnace Creek region of the park is home to the Badwater Basin, the lowest point below

sea level in North America. But once that’s crossed off the bucket list, one soon finds there is much more to this area than just salt flats and blistering heat. Taking the scenic route back from the basin to the visitor’s center (the road through Artist’s Palette) will take you through mountains splashed with pastel colors of blue, pink and gold. Next to the Visitor’s Center is the Harmony Borax Works, where the famous ‘twenty-mule team’ carried borax out from the valley. There is also a Borax museum on the other side of the Visitors Center inside the Furnace Creek Ranch area, a charming village-hotel with a gift/general store, good food, and a post office. So, if you only have one day for a trip out, this is the place. Throw out all the preconceptions your mind or Hollywood has provided in advance; you’ll find the trip is worth taking.

Driver’s Report: Expect to spend a lot of time driving. Major sites of interest are often half an hour to an hour between each other with two-lane highways in between, or in the case of Artist’s Palette, one lane one way. Dirt roads in the park often have special restrictions such as high clearance, four-wheel drive only, etc. but seemed to be clearly marked. Expect speeds to vary widely, generally from 35 on curves and populated areas and 70 on some of the straightaways. Last but not least, fill up before entering the park. Gas prices when we were there were a dollar more than average at Stove Pipe, and a dollar-fifty more than average at Furnace Creek.

Tech Report: There’s a reason there are still pay phones in lodging areas in the park. You may be able to get phone service near the Visitor’s Center and populated areas, but for the most part there is no service here. There is some wifi in the hotels but all reports say it’s very weak. Don’t expect much, and see it as a destination good for unplugging. It’s Death Valley after all!

Wheels Report:
Strollers and Wheelchairs: Badwater Basin has accessible parking, primitive but accessible restroom, and it has a nice ramp and boardwalk that’s easily traversed, ending at the salt basin which is hard-packed and offered little resistance. The Harmony Borax Works is paved and has parking, but be aware the trail is on a slope. The visitors center is fully accessible, with automatic doors, accessible auditorium and museum, patio area, wheelchair rentals, and the best bet for restrooms.

Bikes: Furnace Creek Ranch offers mountain bike rentals for $15 an hour, located next to the general store.

Food Report: We brought most of our food with us in a cooler, but we did have a chance to eat at the Forty Niner Cafe in Furnace Creek Ranch. It was a bit pricey even for lunch, but there was a kid’s menu and the food was good quality and large portions. (There’s no good place to stash a stroller, though.) The General Store next to the Cafe also carries plenty of snacks, water, and other supplies as well as gifts.

Kids Report: If you need somewhere to take the kids for an hour to get away from the midday heat, try the Furnace Creek Visitor’s Center. There is a small museum inside with interactive exhibits ideal for kids, and also a film about the park plays every half an hour. For stroller-age kids, I also recommend bringing along a mist bottle with a fan attachment; you can find them for ten dollars or less in drug stores. It definitely made our toddler’s trip a lot more tolerable.

General tips: If you’re planning to stay more than a day, remember that lodging inside the park, while convenient, can be expensive compared to options in nearby towns. Research your options carefully. On the other hand, campground options inside the park are plentiful, especially during the cooler months (four of them close in the summer.) Don’t forget sunglasses and hats; the glare can be fierce, especially around the salt flats. The visitor’s guide for the park (you can get it at the visitors center) is quite detailed, and worth reading through. And last but not least, always pack more water than you need in case of emergencies.

Web Report: Official:http://www.nps.gov/deva/index.htm
A handy Death Valley guide to accessibility: http://www.nps.gov/deva/planyourvisit/accessibility.
Furnace creek ranch official: http://www.furnacecreekresort.com/lodging/the-ranch-at-furnace-creek/
Camping: http://www.nps.gov/deva/planyourvisit/camping.htm

Road Trip Revisited

Tag Archives: National Parks

Death Valley – Stovepipe Wells

Death Valley – Furnace Creek

Adventure Away From The Interstate